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Moore Town— home to lush greenery, history, a tribe of Maroons and the breathtaking Nanny Falls.

This quiet village is situated in Jamaica’s Blue Mountains and the John Crow Mountains. The settlement’s landscape boasts a 360° view of unspoiled natural beauty. Signage is erected near the entry point with imminent pride welcoming visitors to the historic town with a quick background story.

Maroons are former runaway slaves who fought British soliders in the 18th century. They used the knowledge of the land to their advantage in guerilla warfare before eventually signing a peace treaty in 1739 to gain freedom and land. Moore Town is where many of them (and now their descendants) settled. Maroon towns in Jamaica include:

I became intrigued to visit a Maroon community and learn more about their heritage after witnessing the Charles Town Maroons performance at an event. The captivating Nanny Falls was a big enough incentive to make this my 1st experience.

By the way, quick reminder…

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Nanny Falls, Portland Jamaica

Moore Town was mostly easy to find by following a map app. Ventured to the village mainly to bathe beneath a towering, legendary waterfall of the Wild Cane River. To locate Nanny Falls, it’s as simple as asking a Moore Town resident for directions. Anyone familiar with Jamaicans giving directions may start to worry at this point, but I urge you to fret not!

In my case, 2 elderly women pointed to the route before calling another resident from his home to act as a guide. This caught us off guard, as it wasn’t expected / intended to have someone unexpectedly pause their day to accommodate my adventure. I later learned that our guide, Chris aka Dre, is himself a Maroon.

The legend of Nanny Falls is that it’s a natural healing water source. During the years-long battle between the Windward Maroons and the British, it was believed to treat wounded soldiers through holistic properties. If a bath below Nanny Falls didn’t readily cure a Maroon’s injuries, they were deemed unfit to return to combat.

I’m not superstitous but will say that this is a river that gives me an indescribable sacred feeling when in it; have heard similiar sentiments from others as well. A popular Portland delicacy called busso can be found in these waters. It’s a tiny river snail, and if you’ve ever considered trying conch or escargot it’s worth asking your Maroon guide about this cultural dish.

Maroon law dictates visitors to Nanny Falls must be accompanied during their visit by a Maroon.

Nature Trail to Nanny Falls in the Blue & John Crow Mountains

You’ll be led to an open, shady area to park vehicles before beginning a ~10-minute uphill hike (kind of like the journey to a hidden waterfall in Kingston, but steeper). In dry conditions the terrain is fair; most effort would be exerted on the incline. Along the route there are a variety of plants, including seasonal produce you may enjoy like apple, guava, nutmeg, and mammee (ever tried this uncommon crop?). Our Maroon guide pointed out multiple Jamaican fruits and herbs while sharing wellness tips along the way. The upward walk reminded me of a waterfall tucked in St. Mary forest).

Humidity plus the energy to ascend the slope drenched us in sweat before reaching Nanny Falls; thankfully the journey wasn’t long. There are freshwater springs that could serve as answers to your prayers (they definitely did for mine). The natural water source provides the option of drinking straight from the rock, as many residents do.

The nature trail concludes at a steep flight of concrete stairs with a railing, affectionately called ‘the stairway to heaven’. These steps lead to the main attraction— the mystic Nanny Falls!

Travel Tip: Wear comfortable, closed shoes and exercise caution on the stairs

Rejuvenate at Nanny Falls

Large boulders and trees form a pathway leading to the majestic waterfall. It cascades over a crag to more than 30 feet into a river pool below. A circular rock ledge is formed around Nanny Falls. It may allow walking along the perimeter, if water levels allow, to shower beneath the cascade. Even when the water is crystal clear, the force of the ripples from the tall drop can make it difficult to see the river floor.

Be mindful of a pit directly in front of the waterfall, especially non-swimmers.

The water runoff hitting the pool below can create a spraying mist and what feels like natural air conditioning. In typical Jamaican heat, that can be very exhilarating! If you feel for a refreshing wash off or an aquatic back massage, Nanny Falls could be your answer. Breaks may be needed from the pulsating falls after seconds at a time, depending on the water pressure.

The peaceful sound of the flowing Wild Cane River can drown out all worries in these moments. It can be so easy to lose track of time at Nanny Falls’ and its surrounding natural beauty. My 1st time there was so relaxing that everyone present (3 of us) was able to drift into slumber, in and out of water.

Nanny of the Maroons

Nanny Falls is named after Jamaica’s 1st National Heroine, Nanny. She was originally from Ghana, Africa and led the Windward Maroons in their fight for freedom. They became the 1st Black slaves to have their freedom officially recognized after a truce and peace treaty signing with the British.

As a result, the Maroons were also allotted 500 acres of land, until Nanny negotiated with the British government to eventually have 1,270 acres for her people. This developed into a settlement called New Nanny Town, which is today known as Moore Town. It and Nanny Falls have been under the jurisdiction of the Moore Town Maroons ever since. 

There is a monument to the national heroine in the village, which shares the burial site ground of former 100-year-old Maroon Colonel Colin Harris. Her body is said to be buried a few metres away from the monument, marked by a small bump and dwarf tree referred to as ‘bump grave’.

Nanny of the Maroons Statue by Basil Watson

Photo: Nanny of the Maroons statue (located in Emancipation Park)

Nanny Falls Location

PLAN YOUR VISIT

Visit this historic town and iconic waterfall with a Maroon guide.

Ask for Dre at 876-401-2618 or message Nanny Falls Tours online,

Travel Tip: If able, please ask if it’s fine to give a contribution to your maroon guide.

Nanny Falls Conclusion

I visited Moore Town seeking relaxation and natural beauty. I got more than I bargained for— history, culture, and genuine hospitality! Watch my Instagram video recapping the journey.

What fascinates you more about Moore Town: the Maroon heritage or beauty of Nanny Falls???


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